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When assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. But, nestled near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary achievement.